Chusen Dyeing

Chusen dyeing is a traditional Japanese dyeing technique that highlights the natural diffusion of dyes. It offers a subtle color nuance, made possible through skilled craftsmanship. One key characteristic of chusen is its ability to dye both sides of the fabric evenly by pouring dye from above and allowing it to pass through the material. This process also enhances the fabric’s resistance to fading. Typically crafted with cotton, chusen-dyed fabrics are breathable and sun-dried, resulting in a soft texture that is kind to the skin.

Hamamatsu City, located in the western part of Shizuoka Prefecture within the Enshu region, is known as a hub of industry and culture. It is a renowned hub of the automotive industry, known as the birthplace of Honda and home to Suzuki’s headquarters. Additionally, Hamamatsu is renowned as a “City of Musical Instruments,” hosting major manufacturers such as Yamaha, Kawai, and Roland.
At YAMATO Co., our chusen-dyed yukata are primarily crafted in Hamamatsu. After the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923, yukata artisans from Tokyo relocated to Hamamatsu in search of a new base. The city’s abundant water resources from the Tenryu River, dry winds ideal for fabric drying, and advanced machine development contributed to its growth as a yukata production hub. Furthermore, its location between Tokyo and Osaka provided excellent logistical advantages for production and distribution.
Blessed with rich natural surroundings, Hamamatsu is also a treasure trove of local specialties. Lake Hamana, a brackish lake combining salt and freshwater, is famous for its eel farming and seafood such as clams and prawns. These favorable conditions have nurtured the chusen tradition over time.

Points of Interest in Hamamatsu

Yamaha Grand Piano at JR Hamamatsu Station

Inside the Shinkansen concourse at JR Hamamatsu Station, you’ll find a Yamaha grand piano that anyone can play.

Lake Hamana

Lake Hamana is Japan’s largest brackish lake, where seawater and freshwater mix. It is also famous for eel farming. Visible from the Shinkansen, the sight of this lake is sure to lift your spirits.

Hamamatsu Gyoza

Hamamatsu Gyoza is a B-class gourmet dish; local street food with a light and refreshing flavor. The filling, made from cabbage, garlic chives, onions, and pork, is wrapped in a thin dough. A signature feature is the bean sprouts placed in the center of the serving. It’s absolutely delicious!

The Enshu Railway

Nicknamed the “Aka-Den” (Red Train) due to its red color, the Enshu Railway runs vertically through the city.

Nakatajima Sand Dunes

The Nakatajima Sand Dunes offer breathtaking views and beautiful wind patterns created by nature. Here, you can experience the strong “Karakaze,” blustery winds from the Enshu-nada Sea. From spring to summer, loggerhead turtles come to the dunes to lay their eggs. Although the dunes are a bit far from the nearest station, they are a must-visit destination.

Hamamatsu Festival Pavilion

The colorful kites displayed here are from the Hamamatsu Festival, held near the Nakatajima Sand Dunes. Every year during Golden Week, the festival features intense kite battles and a spectacular procession of palace floats. With over 2 million attendees over three days, the event is a sight to behold! At this pavilion, you can experience the vibrant spirit of the festival.
Admission: 400 yen for adults. Free for children under junior high school age and seniors over 70.

1. Starch Application (Norioki)

Starch Application (Norioki)

Stencil patterns are created based on designs and fixed to wooden frames. Starch paste is applied to the fabric to resist dye penetration. The fabric is folded into layers, and each exposed surface is carefully treated with starch.

To prevent the starch from running, sawdust (oga powder) is sprinkled on the surface.

Artisan Tools and Skills

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Board Table (Itaba)

The workspace where starch is applied to create patterns.

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Handcrafted Starch and Sawdust

The starch is made by cooking clay, glutinous rice, seaweed, and rice bran, while the sawdust provides a protective coating for smooth application.

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Custom Wooden Spatulas

Wooden spatulas used in starch application gradually wear down and mold to the artisan’s hand over time, enhancing precision.

2. Dyeing

Dyeing

Barriers (dote) are created around the patterned areas to prevent dye overflow.

Using a special long-spouted kettle (yakan), artisans pour dye onto the fabric. The fabric sits on a table equipped with a vacuum mechanism that absorbs the dye from the underside.

Gradation effects (bokashi) are achieved by pouring two dyes simultaneously, requiring refined expertise.

The process is repeated for the reverse side to achieve chusen’s characteristic depth of color.

Artisan Tools and Skills

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Dyeing Workspace (Konya)

The workspace where artisans dye the fabric using tools like kettles.

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Custom Kettles (Yakan)

Specially designed by tinplate artisans, these kettles feature a precise spout curvature to prevent dripping, exemplifying the mastery of craftsmanship.

3. Washing, Dehydration, and Sun-Drying

Washing, Dehydration, and Sun-Drying

The fabric is placed in large tanks where starch and excess dye are thoroughly washed away. Once cleaned, it is spun in a massive dehydrator.

The fabric, measuring approximately 12 meters in length, is then hung on drying racks and dried under the sun. After drying, it is carefully smoothed and prepared into rolls, completing the production process.

Artisan Tools and Skills

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Water Rinse called the “Gacha” Machine

Each piece of fabric is delicately peeled off and “swum” in water to remove starch and dye residue. This process uses between 5 and 7 tons of water daily. The fabric is then washed using a machine nicknamed “Gacha” for the characteristic clattering noise it makes during operation.

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7-Meter-High Drying Racks

The fabric is hung on 7-meter-high racks, where it sways gently in the wind and dries naturally within a day.

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The Special Characteristics of the Fabric

The fabric is woven on shuttle looms that operate at an intentionally slow speed, creating a gentle, tension-free weave. Through processes of bleaching and dyeing, the fabric develops a soft and tender texture. It is washable, highly absorbent, and quick-drying. Additionally, with each wash, it becomes softer and molds more closely to the skin, offering increased comfort over time.

Kusunoki-san, Itaba Artisan, Nihashi Dye Factory

“The key to this craft is balancing speed with precision.”

Says Kusunoki-san. The starch application process is physically demanding, especially when handling fabric that weighs up to 2 kilograms.”

Ichinose-san, Konya Artisan, Nihashi Dye Factory

“We now use more colors than before. In the past, we only had navy, blue, and black. That’s why I’m currently studying color,”

says Ichinose, a seasoned artisan with 23 years of experience in dyeing. Watching his skillfully create gradation effects on the fabric is like witnessing magic.

A Vintage Wall Clock and Mr. Nihashi, President of Nihashi Dye Factory

ー Please tell us about Chusen dyeing.

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Please tell us about Chusen dyeing.

In the past, similar dyeing methods were found across various regions in Japan. For instance, in Hamamatsu, it was called sosogizome（注ぎ染め）, while in Osaka, it was known as tsugizome（注ぎ染め）. Around 1935, the name “Chusen（注染）” was adopted as a standard term nationwide.

ー What is important to you in craftsmanship?

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What is important to you in craftsmanship?

The key is how well I can envision and express the image that customers have in mind. I often take the initial concept provided by the customer and handle everything—from designing to choosing the color scheme—to bring it to life. Since the dyeing process is done entirely by hand, it involves challenges that are completely different from machine-based dyeing. However, that is precisely where its charm lies. By valuing this handmade approach, I aim to deliver products that meet our customers’ expectations. Inspired by the Yaramaika spirit of Hamamatsu, which means “Why not give it a try?”, I strive to create products with the belief that “nothing is impossible.”

Taichi-san, Muto Dye Works

ー What is the charm of Chusen dyeing?

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What is the charm of Chusen dyeing?

Ultimately, it is the fact that everything is dyed by hand. The nuances, such as the color diffusion, change slightly each time, which is part of the handmade charm. At the same time, it also presents challenges in maintaining consistency as a finished product. It’s fascinating to aim for craftsmanship where everyone involved is satisfied, carefully deciding where to strike a balance.

ー Are there any challenges you would like to take on in the future?

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Are there any challenges you would like to take on in the future?

The Chusen dyeing process itself will likely remain unchanged. Therefore, I always think about how to make the most of this process. If there are new forms or challenges to pursue, I’m eager to take them on.