KURUME KASURI

Kurume Kasuri is a cotton kimono textile with a history of approximately 200 years, originating in the Chikugo region of Fukuoka Prefecture, nurtured by the abundant waters of the Chikugo River. Along with Iyo Kasuri from Ehime Prefecture and Bingo Kasuri from Hiroshima Prefecture, it is recognized as one of Japan’s “Three Great Kasuri” textiles.
“Kasuri” refers to a weaving technique in which patterns are created by tying off sections of threads during the dyeing process—a method known as “kukuri”—to prevent certain areas from absorbing dye. The resulting patterns, while intricate, often feature slight shifts in their outlines, producing a unique “blurred” or “bleeding” effect that exudes rustic charm and a sense of human warmth.
Kurume Kasuri is also famously known as a favorite of renowned author Osamu Dazai, celebrated for works such as No Longer Human. He appreciated Kurume Kasuri for its comfort and durability.

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1. The warmth of human craftsmanship: The “kasuri” patterns reflect a subtle essence.

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2. Texture that becomes more comfortable over time: The fabric softens and adapts to the wearer.

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3. Easy to care for at home: Machine-washable and practical.

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4. Endless styling possibilities: Its versatility ensures timeless appeal.

The Charm of Kasuri Patterns: Subtle”Shift” of outline

The slight shifts in pattern outlines, known as “blur” or “bleeding,” bring depth and warmth to kasuri. In an age of advanced technology that enables intricate designs, the handmade imperfections of kasuri evoke a deep appreciation for its rustic charm and warmth. This unique quality is one of Kurume Kasuri’s defining appeals. Patterns are created by tying off sections of threads during the dyeing process (“kukuri”), resulting in a wide variety of expressive designs.

The Roots of Kasuri

The origins of kasuri can be traced to “ikat,” a textile tradition from regions such as India, Indonesia, and Sumatra. It is believed to have traveled across the seas, arriving in Japan via the Ryukyu Islands and the Amami Islands. Kasuri’s development in Japan dates back to the 14th century in the Ryukyu Kingdom which existed until 1879, is now part of modern-day Okinawa. As tribute cloth for the royal court, designs were commissioned by the court, produced by various islands, and submitted as annual taxes. Over time, new patterns were devised, driving the evolution of kasuri techniques.

Tough yet Gentle Fabric That Becomes more Comfortable with Wear

Cotton kimonos are beloved for their excellent absorbency, breathability, and the light, airy comfort they provide without clinging to the skin. These qualities make them a staple for casual wear. The secret lies in the cotton threads and the craftsmanship perfected by each production region over generations. It is often said that “the more you wear it, the more it molds to your body.” Compared to delicate silk kimonos, cotton kimonos are stronger and easier to care for, as they can be washed at home. Moreover, the natural texture of cotton conveys the warmth of handcrafting, offering a unique and organic appeal not found in other materials.

Threads That Create a Soft Impression

At YAMATO Co., our Kurume Kasuri uses 40-count double-ply threads for the warp (vertical threads) and 21-count slub threads for the weft (horizontal threads).

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40-count double-ply threads

hese threads strike a balance between strength and flexibility.
Double-ply threads are created by twisting two threads together, increasing durability and giving the fabric a smooth texture.

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Slub threads

These threads feature intentional variations in thickness, creating a textured appearance.
By using slub threads, the fabric gains a nuanced texture, resulting in a softer, more natural impression.

Sun-Drying: Bringing Out the Feel of the fabric

To minimize shrinkage in finished products, Kurume Kasuri undergoes a hot-water treatment to pre-shrink the fabric, followed by sun-drying. Sun-drying is a gentle method that reduces stress on the fabric, resulting in a soft, airy texture.

The Chikugo River Basin: Ideal for Cotton and Indigo Cultivation

The Chikugo region, located in southern Fukuoka Prefecture and home to Kurume Kasuri, benefits from the fertile soil nurtured by the abundant waters of the Chikugo River. Historically, the cultivation of cotton and indigo was thriving in this area. As cotton was easily accessible, each household began producing cotton textiles, which were used as durable workwear. This close connection between the craft and the region’s natural resources is evident in Kurume Kasuri’s history.

The name “Kurume” has appeared in historical documents since the Muromachi period (1336–1573). While its exact origin is uncertain, one theory suggests it derives from “Kurebe” or “Kureme,” referring to skilled weavers who immigrated to the area from mainland Asia. Another theory proposes that the name originates from “kureme” or “kurime,” referring to spinning or weaving women.

The Beginnings of Kurume Kasuri

Kurume Kasuri traces its origins to the late Edo period, around 1800. A twelve-year-old girl named Den Inoue, living in the Kurume castle town, is credited with its invention. Den, already skilled in weaving by her young age, reportedly had an epiphany after noticing white spots on her clothing. By unravelling and experimenting with threads, she invented the “kukuri” resist-dyeing method, creating Kurume Kasuri’s first patterns.
The fabric Den created was marketed as “（加寿利）Kasuri,” which can be interpreted as a blend of “adding” (加), “auspiciousness” (寿), and “profit” (利)—symbolizing prosperity. She also played a vital role in training over 400 disciples, ensuring the transmission of her techniques and fostering the region’s textile industry.
The Chikugo domain’s rulers, known for their frugality, prohibited the use of silk and encouraged cotton garments instead, which further boosted Kurume Kasuri’s prominence. Over time, innovations like “pictorial kasuri” by Taizo Otsuka and “precision pattern weaving” by Kijiro Ushijima enriched the beauty of kasuri textiles in its present form. This expertise also influenced other textile regions; for example, the development of the tightening loom, a hallmark of Oshima Tsumugi, owes much to techniques learned from Kurume.

The Main Steps in Kurume Kasuri Production

Creating Kurume Kasuri involves approximately 40 distinct steps. Each stage, including designing, tying, dyeing, and weaving, is carried out by skilled artisans in a specialized and collaborative effort. Even in today’s world of computer-aided production, working with “living threads” and incorporating handcrafting into Kurume Kasuri results in a rustic charm, natural beauty that cannot be replicated by machines.

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Design: Sketching and Drafting

Designers determine patterns while taking into account the characteristics of kasuri. This involves precise calculations of the proportions of warp and weft threads as well as plain and kasuri threads, which are then meticulously drawn onto special design paper. The process also requires adjustments for thread shrinkage.

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Warp and Weft Preparation
(Seikei and Sei’i)

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Sei’i (Weft preparation): The weft threads are prepared according to the length of the design pattern.

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Seikei (Warp preparation): The number of warp threads and plain threads required for the design is calculated, with thread shrinkage accounted for.

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Tying (Kukuri)

The areas that will form the design are tied off to resist dye penetration. Tying methods include traditional hand-tying, machine-tying based on patterns, and the use of tension looms where weft threads are interwoven to create resist patterns.

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Dyeing

Three main dyeing techniques are used: indigo dyeing, chemical dyeing, and bleach dyeing.

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Indigo Dyeing

A traditional method that has been used in Kurume Kasuri for centuries. Indigo leaves, fermented and dried into “sukumo,” are placed in vats with wood ash lye, oyster shell lime, sake, and starch syrup. After 2–3 weeks of fermentation, the sukumo is converted into a soluble alkaline form. Threads are dyed by submerging them sequentially into vats of varying indigo concentrations. Skilled artisans carefully adjust pressure to prevent the dye from seeping into tied areas.

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Chemical Dyeing

Introduced in the Meiji period, this method allows for a broader palette, including red, yellow, and green hues. As lifestyles shifted from traditional Japanese garments to Western clothing, more kasuri fabrics featuring vibrant designs were produced.

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Bleach Dyeing

When patterns are darker than the base color, this technique is used. Threads are pre-dyed, and the patterned sections are tied off before immersing the threads in a bleaching agent to remove the base color, leaving the design in white. This method produces a unique type of kasuri called “bleach kasuri.”

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Sizing and Sun-Drying

Threads are coated with starch to minimize tangling and stretched during sun-drying to reduce shrinkage.

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Weft Winding and Warp Threading

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Weft Winding: Threads are rolled onto bobbins while maintaining even tension, using cardboard spacers to prevent tangling.

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Warp Threading: Each warp thread is passed through a heddle to prepare for weaving.

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Weaving

In Kurume, shuttle looms are used instead of high-speed air-jet or water-jet looms to prioritize fabric texture. The first power looms were introduced to the Chikugo region in 1934, relatively late compared to other areas, as the quality of early power looms was insufficient for kasuri production. Aligning warp and weft threads to form patterns remains a challenging task that demands the expertise of skilled weavers.

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Finishing and Sun-Drying

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Hot-Water Treatment

Fabrics are soaked in hot water for about two hours to pre-shrink the material and minimize shrinkage in finished products.

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Sun-Drying

Lightly dehydrated fabrics are sun-dried, a gentle process that reduces stress on the fabric and enhances its soft texture.

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Final Cutting

Fabrics are inspected for width, weave irregularities, and damage before being cut to the required length and folded into quarters, completing the production process.

Kurume Kasuri / Cotton Kimono

¥74,800(Tax inc)

Kurume Kasuri / Cotton Kimono

¥71,500(Tax inc)

Kurume Kasuri / Cotton Kimono

¥52,800(Tax inc)

Kurume Kasuri / Cotton Kimono

¥77,000(Tax inc)

Kurume Kasuri / Cotton Kimono

¥52,800(Tax inc)

Kurume Kasuri / Cotton Kimono

¥71,500(Tax inc)

着物・振袖・和装小物なら「きものやまと」

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